<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
		>
<channel>
	<title>Comments for Kelly&#039;s World- A View into the mind of Uber Geek, Kelly Adams</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.kgadams.net/comments/feed" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.kgadams.net</link>
	<description>Technology, computer games, MMOGs,  science...and other nerdy stuff</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Mon, 30 Jan 2012 23:31:10 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1</generator>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on Getting tough on spam users… by steven haytor</title>
		<link>http://www.kgadams.net/2011/01/29/getting-tough-on-spam-users/comment-page-1#comment-137696</link>
		<dc:creator>steven haytor</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 30 Jan 2012 23:31:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.kgadams.net/?p=1200#comment-137696</guid>
		<description>Hey, to be honest you should take a look at methods of halting spam by being significantly less of a target, rather than dealing with the spam programs when they are tapping at your web-site

The trouble with open source engines just like Joomla,Wordpress etc is bot runners scanning for susceptible web sites for spamming comments or security risks to insert malware he or she can do that since all of these opensources by default leave an electronic digital foot print on top search engines for example Bing and google, I&#039;ve written and published a post in regards to this on my small internet site you should check it out, its certainly ideal for halting spam and malicious software, prevent being a targetable target for them

&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bybe.net/blog/50-the-most-efficient-way-to-stop-comment-spam.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stop the comment spam&lt;/a&gt;

steven haytor
&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bybe.net&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Web Design Poole&lt;/a&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey, to be honest you should take a look at methods of halting spam by being significantly less of a target, rather than dealing with the spam programs when they are tapping at your web-site</p>
<p>The trouble with open source engines just like Joomla,Wordpress etc is bot runners scanning for susceptible web sites for spamming comments or security risks to insert malware he or she can do that since all of these opensources by default leave an electronic digital foot print on top search engines for example Bing and google, I&#8217;ve written and published a post in regards to this on my small internet site you should check it out, its certainly ideal for halting spam and malicious software, prevent being a targetable target for them</p>
<p><a href="http://www.bybe.net/blog/50-the-most-efficient-way-to-stop-comment-spam.html" rel="nofollow">Stop the comment spam</a></p>
<p>steven haytor<br />
<a href="http://www.bybe.net" rel="nofollow">Web Design Poole</a></p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on My &#8220;new&#8221; old clock- circa 1850&#8242;s Chauncey Jerome 8 day ogee by Kelly Adams</title>
		<link>http://www.kgadams.net/2010/01/16/my-new-old-clock-circa-1850s-chauncey-jerome-8-day-ogee/comment-page-1#comment-130217</link>
		<dc:creator>Kelly Adams</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 23 Dec 2011 16:16:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.kgadams.net/2010/01/16/my-new-old-clock-circa-1850s-chauncey-jerome-8-day-ogee#comment-130217</guid>
		<description>Hi, Mary!  From the arbour position, I believe you probably have a 30 hour clock.  I&#039;m pretty much a novice, however, in terms of putting a date or value to a clock, so I&#039;d suggest you might want to post your question (along with some pictures) on one of the dedicated clock/horology forums.  The one I rely on is the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors message board (http://mb.nawcc.org/index.php).  

Restoring one of these old clocks is truly a labour of love. Don&#039;t expect to make any money in the process :)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi, Mary!  From the arbour position, I believe you probably have a 30 hour clock.  I&#8217;m pretty much a novice, however, in terms of putting a date or value to a clock, so I&#8217;d suggest you might want to post your question (along with some pictures) on one of the dedicated clock/horology forums.  The one I rely on is the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors message board (<a href="http://mb.nawcc.org/index.php" rel="nofollow">http://mb.nawcc.org/index.php</a>).  </p>
<p>Restoring one of these old clocks is truly a labour of love. Don&#8217;t expect to make any money in the process <img src='http://www.kgadams.net/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on My &#8220;new&#8221; old clock- circa 1850&#8242;s Chauncey Jerome 8 day ogee by Mary Grint</title>
		<link>http://www.kgadams.net/2010/01/16/my-new-old-clock-circa-1850s-chauncey-jerome-8-day-ogee/comment-page-1#comment-130166</link>
		<dc:creator>Mary Grint</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 23 Dec 2011 12:28:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.kgadams.net/2010/01/16/my-new-old-clock-circa-1850s-chauncey-jerome-8-day-ogee#comment-130166</guid>
		<description>We have a Chauncey Jerome clock. It is most probably made before the company became the New Haven clock company as it simply says &#039; Made by Chauncey Jerome&#039;. It is in poor condition. It is a single door with two panes, the bottom one is missing. The face looks original and its&#039; arbours are by the 4 and 8. We have the weights and the bottom piece of wood which has broken off. Any comments?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>We have a Chauncey Jerome clock. It is most probably made before the company became the New Haven clock company as it simply says &#8216; Made by Chauncey Jerome&#8217;. It is in poor condition. It is a single door with two panes, the bottom one is missing. The face looks original and its&#8217; arbours are by the 4 and 8. We have the weights and the bottom piece of wood which has broken off. Any comments?</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on My other Harley: 2011 Road Glide Ultra by Kelly Adams</title>
		<link>http://www.kgadams.net/2010/11/06/my-other-harley-2011-roadglide-ultra/comment-page-1#comment-118578</link>
		<dc:creator>Kelly Adams</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 29 Oct 2011 18:33:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.kgadams.net/?p=1180#comment-118578</guid>
		<description>Welcome to my Blog, Robert!  Every bike has its uniqueness: even though my experience is limited, I can certainly tell that.  I&#039;m happy with my choice, and it is great to see other folks head down the same path and get themselves a Road Glide, but each person who rides will find their own &quot;favourite&quot;.  

One minor update I made to my Road Glide late this season was replacing the stock handlebars with &quot;Heritage&quot; bars.  These give an extra three inches or so of pullback when adjusted.  I was starting to experience some problems with my upper back while riding, and noted that I was reaching (straight arms) a bit more than I should.  So far the handlebar change has been a good one, but I&#039;ll need a couple of longer 8+ hour rides next season to confirm.  

Best of luck with your new FLTRU: feel free to come back and share your experiences once you&#039;ve had her for a while!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Welcome to my Blog, Robert!  Every bike has its uniqueness: even though my experience is limited, I can certainly tell that.  I&#8217;m happy with my choice, and it is great to see other folks head down the same path and get themselves a Road Glide, but each person who rides will find their own &#8220;favourite&#8221;.  </p>
<p>One minor update I made to my Road Glide late this season was replacing the stock handlebars with &#8220;Heritage&#8221; bars.  These give an extra three inches or so of pullback when adjusted.  I was starting to experience some problems with my upper back while riding, and noted that I was reaching (straight arms) a bit more than I should.  So far the handlebar change has been a good one, but I&#8217;ll need a couple of longer 8+ hour rides next season to confirm.  </p>
<p>Best of luck with your new FLTRU: feel free to come back and share your experiences once you&#8217;ve had her for a while!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on My other Harley: 2011 Road Glide Ultra by Robert</title>
		<link>http://www.kgadams.net/2010/11/06/my-other-harley-2011-roadglide-ultra/comment-page-1#comment-118160</link>
		<dc:creator>Robert</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 27 Oct 2011 06:54:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.kgadams.net/?p=1180#comment-118160</guid>
		<description>Love this Blog! I am picking up my 2011 RGU next week and I am coming off an eight year run on my 2003 Road King Classic with 50,000 miles on her. Never had any major problems with the King but I am just in need for something completely different and I love the look of the the shark nose fairing and of course the fixed mount so I can really get rolling into the twisties without feeling like I am in a Mack Truck (think full dresser Electra).
I am feeling more confident about the little nuances if this bike. I will definitely be checking back.

  Happy Trails!

    Rob Z.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Love this Blog! I am picking up my 2011 RGU next week and I am coming off an eight year run on my 2003 Road King Classic with 50,000 miles on her. Never had any major problems with the King but I am just in need for something completely different and I love the look of the the shark nose fairing and of course the fixed mount so I can really get rolling into the twisties without feeling like I am in a Mack Truck (think full dresser Electra).<br />
I am feeling more confident about the little nuances if this bike. I will definitely be checking back.</p>
<p>  Happy Trails!</p>
<p>    Rob Z.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on One to One NAT and Telus by Bennet Tan</title>
		<link>http://www.kgadams.net/2005/12/29/one-to-one-natand-telus/comment-page-1#comment-116790</link>
		<dc:creator>Bennet Tan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 20 Oct 2011 22:52:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.kgadams.net/?p=221#comment-116790</guid>
		<description>I&#039;m with Telus now and as mentioned in your previous posts, they tie one public IP address to one device MAC address. Currently we have 2 routers so we have 2 external IPs. But I would like to purchase a CISCO router that can handle multiple public addresses through one-to-one NAT, thus replacing the two routers. Problem is I don&#039;t believe I can map multiple public IP addresses to one MAC address on their device registration page (correct me if I&#039;m wrong).</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;m with Telus now and as mentioned in your previous posts, they tie one public IP address to one device MAC address. Currently we have 2 routers so we have 2 external IPs. But I would like to purchase a CISCO router that can handle multiple public addresses through one-to-one NAT, thus replacing the two routers. Problem is I don&#8217;t believe I can map multiple public IP addresses to one MAC address on their device registration page (correct me if I&#8217;m wrong).</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on One to One NAT and Telus by Kelly Adams</title>
		<link>http://www.kgadams.net/2005/12/29/one-to-one-natand-telus/comment-page-1#comment-116776</link>
		<dc:creator>Kelly Adams</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 20 Oct 2011 21:52:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.kgadams.net/?p=221#comment-116776</guid>
		<description>Greetings, Bennet.  This is so long ago that I don&#039;t even have an RV016 any longer.  But here is my stab at your question.  If your ISP only issues you a single IP address, then you can only use traditional NATing i.e.: one external (WAN; the IP provided by your ISP) to multiple internal (LAN: the IP addresses on your home network.  In this configuration, an inbound request from the Internet on a  particular port such as HTTP can be directed to a single address on your LAN via port mapping.  

However, what do you do if you have multiple machines on your LAN that you want to respond to that port (e.g.: multiple HTTP servers on port 80)?  That&#039;s where one to one NAT would come in.  Your ISP would have to provide you with multiple IP addresses assigned to your single MAC; the router would detect each IP address and direct it to a different LAN IP, so you could have multiple HTTP servers (for example), each responding to a different inbound IP address.  

As I recall, the RV016 can perform either function: traditional, or one to one.  Obviously, if your ISP only gives you the single IP address, you only have one choice.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Greetings, Bennet.  This is so long ago that I don&#8217;t even have an RV016 any longer.  But here is my stab at your question.  If your ISP only issues you a single IP address, then you can only use traditional NATing i.e.: one external (WAN; the IP provided by your ISP) to multiple internal (LAN: the IP addresses on your home network.  In this configuration, an inbound request from the Internet on a  particular port such as HTTP can be directed to a single address on your LAN via port mapping.  </p>
<p>However, what do you do if you have multiple machines on your LAN that you want to respond to that port (e.g.: multiple HTTP servers on port 80)?  That&#8217;s where one to one NAT would come in.  Your ISP would have to provide you with multiple IP addresses assigned to your single MAC; the router would detect each IP address and direct it to a different LAN IP, so you could have multiple HTTP servers (for example), each responding to a different inbound IP address.  </p>
<p>As I recall, the RV016 can perform either function: traditional, or one to one.  Obviously, if your ISP only gives you the single IP address, you only have one choice.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on One to One NAT and Telus by Bennet Tan</title>
		<link>http://www.kgadams.net/2005/12/29/one-to-one-natand-telus/comment-page-1#comment-116750</link>
		<dc:creator>Bennet Tan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 20 Oct 2011 17:58:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.kgadams.net/?p=221#comment-116750</guid>
		<description>Sorry for bringing this thread up again, I&#039;m running into this exact situation in my office now. My question is how does it work with Smarttnet if it only assigns &quot;one true static ip&quot;? Isn&#039;t the whole point of it is to have multiple public ip addresses routed by the RV016 through one-to-one NAT? So how does it perform the NAT operation if there&#039;s only one public static ip to work with?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Sorry for bringing this thread up again, I&#8217;m running into this exact situation in my office now. My question is how does it work with Smarttnet if it only assigns &#8220;one true static ip&#8221;? Isn&#8217;t the whole point of it is to have multiple public ip addresses routed by the RV016 through one-to-one NAT? So how does it perform the NAT operation if there&#8217;s only one public static ip to work with?</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on My &#8220;new&#8221; old clock- circa 1850&#8242;s Chauncey Jerome 8 day ogee by oliver kopp</title>
		<link>http://www.kgadams.net/2010/01/16/my-new-old-clock-circa-1850s-chauncey-jerome-8-day-ogee/comment-page-1#comment-112081</link>
		<dc:creator>oliver kopp</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 02 Oct 2011 03:25:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.kgadams.net/2010/01/16/my-new-old-clock-circa-1850s-chauncey-jerome-8-day-ogee#comment-112081</guid>
		<description>I own a chauncy jerome wall clock similar to the one pictured.
I need some parts for it,any body know a good supplier of parts and possibly photos of the works. This particular clock is cable and weight driven.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I own a chauncy jerome wall clock similar to the one pictured.<br />
I need some parts for it,any body know a good supplier of parts and possibly photos of the works. This particular clock is cable and weight driven.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on My other Harley: 2011 Road Glide Ultra by Kelly Adams</title>
		<link>http://www.kgadams.net/2010/11/06/my-other-harley-2011-roadglide-ultra/comment-page-1#comment-104920</link>
		<dc:creator>Kelly Adams</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 02 Sep 2011 16:17:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.kgadams.net/?p=1180#comment-104920</guid>
		<description>Hi, John, and welcome to the blog!  Apologies for the delay in your comment appearing- I have to moderate everything here due to a steady influx of spam.

I&#039;m glad my little article helped.  I have over 20,000 km (a bit over 12 thousand miles) on my 2011 Road Glide now, and love it to bits.  It is steady and solid on the highway, and fun to ride in all kinds of conditions.  I&#039;ve taken a couple of long (2000+ mile) trips without incident and with a lot of joy.

There has only been one issue: the steering head bearing may loosen during the first few thousand kilometres, and the regular dealer maintenance guides seem to have some inaccuracies regarding how to adjust it.  You&#039;ll feel this at low speeds, particularly coming to the stop using the front brakes, as a sort of &quot;rocking&quot; vibration of the front steering- as if the front end was shifting back and forth slightly.  On my bike I noticed the problem at about 12,000 km.  I had to go back to the dealer twice, ultimately demanding that they road test it before they apply the standard adjustments: once they tested it, they immediately felt the looseness, and corrected it properly.

Note that the steering head issue isn&#039;t a mechanical failure: it just needs to be adjusted correctly.  If you do your own service (I don&#039;t), you&#039;ll likely discover why the service techs short-change this adjustment on the Road Glide: doing it properly involves disassembling a big part of the front end.  

As for the bug thing... well, I can&#039;t confirm that- I know I have a lot of bugs to clean off of my &#039;Glides front end after most longer rides ;)  But I can confirm that light to medium rain pretty much skims right past the rider at speed- I generally never have to put my rain suit on unless I&#039;m dealing with a heavy downpour.  And I suppose, now that I think about it, most of the bugs are on the lowers and windshield: not much on the fairing at all.

In terms of aftermarket modifications- I haven&#039;t made many changes.  I&#039;ve installed a Cee Bailey windshield, which allows a lower windshield with the same/similar airflow.  I was finding that the stock windshield was right on the edge of &quot;look through/look over&quot; height for me.  I&#039;ve also installed the rear suspension lowering kit (basically the shocks from the Road Glide Custom) so I can plant my feet a bit more solidly on the ground.  The stock shocks had my feet planted flat, but I had trouble when pushing the bike backwards.  And I&#039;ve installed softer / padded grips from Avon, just because I find my hands get a bit numb on longer rides.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi, John, and welcome to the blog!  Apologies for the delay in your comment appearing- I have to moderate everything here due to a steady influx of spam.</p>
<p>I&#8217;m glad my little article helped.  I have over 20,000 km (a bit over 12 thousand miles) on my 2011 Road Glide now, and love it to bits.  It is steady and solid on the highway, and fun to ride in all kinds of conditions.  I&#8217;ve taken a couple of long (2000+ mile) trips without incident and with a lot of joy.</p>
<p>There has only been one issue: the steering head bearing may loosen during the first few thousand kilometres, and the regular dealer maintenance guides seem to have some inaccuracies regarding how to adjust it.  You&#8217;ll feel this at low speeds, particularly coming to the stop using the front brakes, as a sort of &#8220;rocking&#8221; vibration of the front steering- as if the front end was shifting back and forth slightly.  On my bike I noticed the problem at about 12,000 km.  I had to go back to the dealer twice, ultimately demanding that they road test it before they apply the standard adjustments: once they tested it, they immediately felt the looseness, and corrected it properly.</p>
<p>Note that the steering head issue isn&#8217;t a mechanical failure: it just needs to be adjusted correctly.  If you do your own service (I don&#8217;t), you&#8217;ll likely discover why the service techs short-change this adjustment on the Road Glide: doing it properly involves disassembling a big part of the front end.  </p>
<p>As for the bug thing&#8230; well, I can&#8217;t confirm that- I know I have a lot of bugs to clean off of my &#8216;Glides front end after most longer rides <img src='http://www.kgadams.net/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif' alt=';)' class='wp-smiley' />   But I can confirm that light to medium rain pretty much skims right past the rider at speed- I generally never have to put my rain suit on unless I&#8217;m dealing with a heavy downpour.  And I suppose, now that I think about it, most of the bugs are on the lowers and windshield: not much on the fairing at all.</p>
<p>In terms of aftermarket modifications- I haven&#8217;t made many changes.  I&#8217;ve installed a Cee Bailey windshield, which allows a lower windshield with the same/similar airflow.  I was finding that the stock windshield was right on the edge of &#8220;look through/look over&#8221; height for me.  I&#8217;ve also installed the rear suspension lowering kit (basically the shocks from the Road Glide Custom) so I can plant my feet a bit more solidly on the ground.  The stock shocks had my feet planted flat, but I had trouble when pushing the bike backwards.  And I&#8217;ve installed softer / padded grips from Avon, just because I find my hands get a bit numb on longer rides.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
</channel>
</rss>

